Q: The fruit on my Nagami kumquat this 12 months is variable and considerably bland. Bigger fruit have little to no acidity and might even be mealy, whereas smaller fruit are nearer in tartness to earlier years. Is that this a results of climate?
A: Publicity to freezing temperatures may cause icky, mealy citrus fruit. Kumquats are comparatively chilly tolerant (for a citrus), but when the fruit is uncovered to freezing temperatures, the pores and skin can crack and go away you with a dry, mealy, bland crop. The bigger fruit comprise extra water, so they’re extra prone to crack and dry out.
Remember the fact that these cracks will not be seen while you harvest the fruit, however they’re nonetheless sufficient to smash your crop.
Q: I’ve a mature dwarf tangerine tree in my yard. It has flourished and produced very nicely over the past 20 years or so. Now, it isn’t doing so nicely. Leaves are fading in shade from inexperienced to yellow and are dropping. The bark on the trunk is wrinkling and items are falling off. It will get loads of water and sunshine. Additionally, it appears to be a house for a large number of ants. What’s going on and is there hope?
A: Your tangerine could also be affected by any variety of maladies. The presence of ants indicates the presence of both aphids or scale insects. Normally these are minor nuisance bugs, however in nice numbers they will weaken a tree. The peeling bark might be attributable to bugs, irregular watering, solar/wind injury or exocortis (an unusual viral illness).
I like to recommend making use of fertilizer particularly formulated for citrus. Yellowing leaves are a typical symptom of nutrient deficiency (particularly nitrogen). Citrus timber require common feeding, so it is a good place to start out.
Should you suspect solar injury (that is possible if the injury is on the south or west going through facet), paint the trunk with white latex paint that has been diluted 1:1 with water.
Q: When is the most effective time to prune a grapefruit tree?
A: Most citrus does not require extensive pruning. At any time you’ll be able to take away lifeless branches, water sprouts (lengthy, nonproductive, extraordinarily vigorous branches that develop straight up) and branches which might be rubbing collectively.
If you wish to prune to maintain the tree’s peak below management, accomplish that both proper earlier than it blooms or after fruit set. Pruning encourages new progress, which is prone to frost injury, so keep away from doing it late within the 12 months. Decrease branches will be pruned to enhance entry to fruit.
Q: After the rain, I discovered all these mounds within the floor. Do you might have any thought what they’re?
A: Your photograph reveals a bunch of 1/4-1/2-inch diameter holes subsequent to little piles of excavated soil. These are earthworm holes, and so they usually seem after heavy rain. Earthworms produce tunnels beneath the soil floor as they feed on decaying natural matter. When the soil turns into waterlogged, these tunnels start to break down and the worms migrate upwards to flee. As they make their approach to the floor, they re-dig these tunnels and the displaced soil finally ends up outdoors.
That is one case the place holes within the floor are an excellent factor!
Have questions? E-mail gardening@scng.com.
On the lookout for extra gardening suggestions? Right here’s contact the Grasp Gardener program in your space.
Los Angeles County
mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/
Orange County
ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; 949-809-9760; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/
Riverside County
anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-683-6491 ext. 231; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/
San Bernardino County
mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu/
